Murcia - Tanger, Morocco ~450 miles
Day four starts with Nath waking up and switching on the television and seeing images of Arabs fighting at fuel stations over Fuel. The hard-to-decipher Spanish report worried us a little as we were just about to cross over to the closest Arab nation to Spain.... No worries - we will move the crow bar from the boot to the front seat.
We skipped breakfast as we needed to get on the road pretty quickly to the meeting point - a McDonalds car park.. ummmm nice. After pissing a few Spanish off en route with our eclectic driving we met the rest of the road revelers, but didn't stop to socialize as we had a ferry to catch.
On to the Autostrada, and cruising at a steady indicated 85-90mph (we reckon there is about +10mph on the ol' speedo) we travel with grace and air in our 190e. Water temp steady at 85, fuel consumption, hmmm, well not as bad as the V8 Ambulance doing 6mpg and the team already having spent 1600euros on fuel. They plan to add a paddling pool and sand when they hit Africa.
With us ripping up the asphalt, a white spec appears in the rearview mirror, getting larger with every km covered. It is moving at a fair old rate and as it passes guns come out of the window .........it's the Germans! The white Scirocco with chavved white rear lights aims and fires water at us travelling at 80mph. Brilliant free screen wash! They overtake and point their guns through their sun roof and bam - we're hit again. A huge spray clears all the local deceased insects from the screen. The banter has been immense. We tie up with them down most of the Autostrada.
Passing through Granada (the place not one of our competitors), we have the pleasure of watching an airabatical display with the Spanish equivalant of the Red Arrows practising above us.
Hmmm, the diff whine that started yesterday is getting louder on over-run, but we're just going to turn up Mr. Hammer. We can't touch that anyway.
Hitting our first traffic jam, just before Algeciras, the indicated water temperature rises to 110c, and we play safe and switch off the engine. We knew it was an accident due to Ambulances and Police flying by on the hard shoulder. We just hope it doesn't involve someone on C2C. After half an hour we get by, and all is well, and no one on our rally was involved.
The roads are so bumpy here that Joe makes the quote of the day: "Someone should buy Spain a spirit level"..... yes indeed.
Arriving 10 minutes before our ferry was due to leave, we catch up with some competitors and ask them what the caper is. "Go to that booth over there, then speak to the man at the desk there, run round the block three times, buy the ticket man a beer, you must beat the stewardess over there at Monopoly twice, and then they will give you your ticket. Nice.
As we ran around completing all our tasks, we hoped that we could catch our ferry, and we did..... just. Ironically the seacat that we used to cross over to a third world country was nicer than the cross channel one we'd used 4 days ago. We sit on the ferry and wax lyrical about the adventure so far, when Joe brings us down to earth with a bump and we consider our plan of action at the Moroccan border. The C2C organisers have built this up as (to paraphrase): have plenty of cash and keep the doors locked.
We have been told that we will get acosted by guides and "helpers" Don't let anyone get into your car, don't let them park your car, don't accept help unless you are willing to pay for it. Put all valuables (anatomy included) in the boot and stay in groups. Have plenty of Euros to change into Dirhams when you get there. Split up cash into small amounts between you.
We get back into the car as the ferry docks, and silence reigns through the car as we head into the unknown.... What's this? Has there been a navigational error? We arrive not in Africa but in Spain. Odd... Did we just perform a nautical U-turn??
Heading through Spain, with a few locals here and there bouncing of the bonnet - they are really keen to chat with us - chuh yeah right, more like to give us a good financial shafting, after 15 minutes, we arrive at a chaotic border.
Multiple lanes leading up to a typical covered border control lay in front of us and we gingerly drive up and park on the side of one lane. Immediately we are bombarded with ghetto folk trying to help us. We haven't felt need to use the crow bar yet, so all is good. We head up to the booths, and find a guide that will take 20euros to help us. He seems to be running all the ghetto folk, and therefore I guess could be classed as da Ghetto Chief. He says "If any of my men ask you money, you don't - give me money - I make sure Mustafa and friends are looked after" - yeah woteva!
We fill out forms for ouselves, forms for the car and forms for the insurance, all obtained from different booths. The car remains locked, and it's hot - really hot, we install our newly found sunroof mechanism. An exotic piece of wood shoved in the tilt mode. (No one dares push the sunroof button, during the rebuild, plenty of top notch German Plastik was removed and the Haynes manual suggested: "don't even go there")
After an hour of negotiating, we cross the border. Not as bad as we thought. I guess we were lucky.
AFRICA! Birthplace of man. 3 chumps in a Merc, and the Benz starts to get some serious lovin'. Kids point and shout, thumbs up. Everyone looks. You see the Merc 190e here is a legend in its own right. The Arabs love bling. A lowered, bad ass body kitted 190e with h'attitude is going down a treat. Shame we don't have many LEDs.
The roads are pap. They are so bad, we ground out on a number of occasions, and Nath is in the front! Bizzare. Arabs lovin' the sparks as we go.
It is interesting to note how you can buy a £100 car in England, bring it to Morocco and realise you have the best car in da hood. No diggity no doubt. I wish we had put a gold three-pointed star on the front now.
Such random cars on the road, an absolutely battered Peugeot 504 with the entire contents of a medium sized semi-detached house on the roof running at 80kph on the bump-stops, with not a panel with out a dent. Then you look inside and realise half the popultaion of Africa is lined up on the bench seat in the back. Crazy. Taxis take "Economies of Scale" to the limit, by ramming as many women and children in the front seat with Abduhl, Mustafa and his five cousins in the back and another baby on the parcel shelf.
Half an hour in, and we leave Ceuta and hit the "Autoroute" - please note that this word is used with a pinch of salt. Marked on the map as the motorway we endure a speed limit of 80kph, on road surfaces that would befit an off-road course designed by Landrover to test their latest Defender. We experience our first encounter with the Moroccan police.
With Nathan at the wheel. The Moroc-lice come over to the car. Shake our hands and politely say good afternoon. They ask us if we are Moroccan - er - no. "You know the speed limit?" - "Yes 80kph, but we were doing 80kph" replies Nath. "You know how much you would have to pay?", "No", "400dirhams" "ok - be careful, go on" Phew.
Continuing on the Autoroute, we head up into the mountains again, with trucks overtaking in front, 3 abreast, on a hill, one doing 30mph, the next doing 31mph and the next 33. Countless near misses, and a real free for all.
Scraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaape. The road falls away below the wheels, and we litterally slide the car on the chassis and exhaust on a mound in the middle of the road. Team Roughrunnings experience a simultaenious wince/buttock clenching moment.
Arriving finally in Tanger after having left a Hansel and Gretal trail of authentic Mercedes auto parts on a paticular rough stretch of motorway, we endure further heart in throat moments. The drivers in Tanger make the Italians seem like the best drivers in the world. Advice to y'all: Fly here.
We don't know where our InterContinental Hotel (Lead sponsors of the Aston Martin winning Le Mans team), (Where's our free room?) is. Nath at the wheel, and proving he is a really skilled tactical driver, aims for Centre-Ville and we approach a round-a-bout the size of Necker Island, with about 12 lanes. You thought the Arc-de-Triomphe round-a-bout in Paris was bad. No rules, no give way, just launch yourself into it, and cross any body part available. Watch the olive skinned minor selling fake Breitlings, mind the cyclist with his five cousins, daughter and mistress on the back - oh and big hole where they are "thinking about" repairing the road.
The InterContinental signs point us to our Oasis of normality. We arrive, and feel very proud of our accomplishment.
It's game on for a swim in the outdoor pool. We have a beer and hand in our challenge which was something Mathmatic to do with numberplates that Joe achieved with eyes shut while driving - don't ask me I am a mathematical idiot.
For the first time today, we want to know what time it is. In Spain it is 8.20pm, in Tanger it is 6.20pm - Grenwich mean-time. Excellant more time for local beer.
I ask concierge where we can go for traditional Arabic food, and Shisha. He rings up a restaurant and taxi. We headed into the centre of town. Abduhl rocks up in a Merc 250d. We chat about typical in-taxi topics, J-Lo's assets, prostitutes, the clubs, and dancers in Tanger, and how he has the pick of the bunch. He boasts of his 5 cylinders, and with 250k on the clock comments "It's not a lot is it?" We literally plough through people in the hustle and bustle of the old town. The atmosphere is thick, and we have inhaled a life's time worth of Carbon since arrivng. Abduhl offers to pick us when we want and will act as our Chauffeur for the night.
Our restaurant is quiet with traditional Arabic sofas, and Nath and I take the lamb, with Joe eating Chickan. Chickan! Joe eating Chickan - what the holy mother of Mustafa? Shiesh Kebab!
We decide after the meal to try walking around the old market town, it goes quite well, An Arabian guy starts speaking English to us, attempting to become our guide. We carry on, remain polite but firm, and decline his services.
It has occured to me, that the English are very reserved and feel very threatened by people coming forward and we generally are not sure how to handle the situation, it puts us out of our comfort zone.
The taxi is back at the Restaurant waiting for us. Kim asks to be taken to a Shisha bar, we head down to the beach. Entering the bar, we get some strange looks, and are seated almost outside of the bar. We are served beers and Shisha, and we relax looking out over the sea - bliss.
We have achived some "Cultural learnings for make benefit glorious team of Rough Runnings" in that it takes time to build up trust with those you do business with. On entering the bar, the hosts were very wary of us, but after we had paid, they became our best friends. A throughly enjoyable day and to sum up it all up so far in a Boratesque local dialect: "I like, niiiice!"
End of day 4
No. of push starts: 0
No. Haribo consumed: 2 packs of Gold Baren, 1 Kiddie Mix, 1 Star Mix and 2 packs of fried eggs
No. of car components Kim broke: For the first time on this trip: 0!
Road kill total: 1 Lizard (The one on the side of the road has a new flatmate)
No. of near misses: Hundreds
No. of knob jokes made by Joe & Nath: 6kjph (Knob jokes per hour)